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For years, fruit notes in fragrance were background players — a sparkle of citrus on the top, a hint of apple or peach for sweetness, a juicy note to give lift. They were supporting acts, rarely the stars. But in niche perfumery today, that balance has shifted. The trend is clear: fruit is being pushed to the foreground, not in delicate measures but in overdosed waves. Think cherries dripping in liqueur, figs bursting with sap, plums on the edge of fermentation. It’s an embrace of abundance, sensuality, even decadence.
This “fruit overdose” movement isn’t about freshness — it’s about intensity. Perfumers are using fruit notes at exaggerated volume, pairing them with darker, richer elements to create compositions that feel both indulgent and contemporary. It’s fruit as fantasy, fruit as excess, fruit that challenges the old rules of restraint.
Miller Harris’s Poirier d’un Soir is a textbook example of how compelling this approach can be. At its heart is pear — not a crisp, green pear, but one that is ripe, golden, and dripping with sweetness. The opening is juicy, immediate, and mouth-watering, amplified with blackcurrant’s tang and the glow of citrus. But where a classic pear accord might fade quickly, here it deepens: rum saturates the fruit, caramelised sugar drapes over it, spun sugar adds a gourmand edge.
Yet Poirier d’un Soir doesn’t stop at overdose. It layers complexity around the pear, keeping the scent from tipping into syrupy territory. Rose and peony add dusky floral volume; birch tar and cedarwood bring smoke and structure; patchouli and papyrus ground the sweetness with a dry, woody base. The result is a fragrance that embodies the trend toward amplified fruit, while avoiding its pitfalls.
What makes Poirier d’un Soir stand out is balance: it indulges in the overdose without losing sophistication. It offers the pleasure of fruit in abundance, but frames it in shadows, texture, and warmth. It’s not just a pear perfume — it’s a portrait of fruit as desire, dressed for evening.
In a fragrance landscape hungry for sensory impact, Poirier d’un Soir shows why fruit is suddenly everywhere in niche perfumery: because too much, when done well, feels exactly right.
Shop Poirier d’un Soir – available in 100ml, 50ml, and as a Sample.
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