Our guest blogger, Nick Gilbert, introduces us to the candied world of Brighton Rock and Gourmand Fragrance.
In perfumery, when we talk about ‘gourmand’ fragrances, we’re suggesting a character that has edible, sweet, and mouth-watering connotations when you wrap your nose around the scent. Traditionally served up with woods and florals, the effect they have on perfume is that of diffusion and obsessive deliciousness.
Miller Harris has newly launched a pair of fragrances that tickle that gourmand fancy, a lick of delectability and the taste of nostalgia… but what else should you smell if you enjoy the gourmand?
Which scents capture childhood memories of a carefree summer more than that of a stick of rock, melting icecream and the seaside? Nothing. Whether you spent your summers at Brighton or Westward Ho!, Blackpool or Woolacombe, these scents make perfect sense in combination. Julie Pluchet, a French perfumer who has called Britain home for a number of years, created Brighton Rock and captured all of those elements perfectly.
A particular childhood memory of mine is soft-serve ice cream with a foam strawberry on top and slowly wandering back to the beach covered in melted vanilla and sun cream. The juicy, delicious strawberry liqueur note from Blousy instantly transports to those innocent times. Where it’s combined with a warm carnation and voluptuous rose effect, Blousy is a lot more wearable and grown-up than those memories, but the sweetness and playful aspect of the scent is undeniable.
What is supremely clever about Scherzo is the way Mathieu Nardin conjured the idea of ‘sugar flowers in a confectioners window’, hovering in a pink cloud over the gardens of the south of France in his translation of the passage from Tender is the Night that inspired Scherzo (and Tender). This delicious, addictive sweet note is a combination of vanilla and candy floss, with a touch of sweet berries hidden amongst the fragrance.
Noix de Tubereuse
The name of this fragrance used to confuse me a little until I understood the ‘nutty’ aspect of the scent – tuberose naturally suggests peach and sweetness, as well as a delicate, almost almond character. And here, in Noix de Tubereuse, the almond aspect is played up through a combination of powdery tonka and fuzzy mimosa, each of them naturally almond-like with a hint of ripe cherry and soft vanilla.
LOST in the City
The most vibrantly fruity fragrance in all of Miller Harris’ offering, LOST celebrates all that is great and delicious about rhubarb. Shockingly pink and deliciously tart, the mouth-watering fruit is best served fresh, dipped in a bag of sugar, or stewed into a delicious compote. LOST sets rhubarb against juicy notes of blackcurrant and bergamot, and the delicate petals of rose – combined with a cool green geranium note that suggests ferns bursting through the concrete.